When we arrived in Harbin, we asked where we could find an active Orthodox Church only to learn that people only knew St. Sofia, now the museum of Architectural Art. Had Metropolitan Nikitas not given us the approximate address of the Church and Fr. Gregory's name we probably would not have located either.
The Holy Protection of the Virgin Church stands in the heart of the city at 270 Bolshoi Prospect, about a ten minute walk from the famous square with the figure of a snowflake. As we approached it we saw what appeared to be an administration building behind a small structure with a Russian three barred cross (picture). The administration building now houses a school for beauticians, a beauty parlor and barber shop. The church itself had workmen repairing the exterior. The gate to the street was locked. There were no announcements or signs to indicate that this indeed was an active church - very much in contrast to the Protestant church which was 150 meters away and was full of parishioners and had signs in Chinese and English announcing services. We walked a little further, but seeing no more churches in the vicinity we decided to return to the one under repair.
When we asked for the priest, the workmen directed us to the school for beauticians. We thought this strange, but when we asked to speak with Fr. Gregory, we were pointed to the only door with no signs or advertisements. This is where Fr. Gregory lives and has his office. Fr. Gregory told us that he is 75, has family in Beijing, received his seminary training at the Russian Ecclesiastical Academy in Shanghai and began his priestly duties in Harbin in 1951.
He stated that 140,000 Russians used to live in Harbin until the Communist takeover. Now his parish consists of 144 souls ranging in age from 68 to 92. On average, 18 come to liturgy on Sundays. On Pascha, over 400 people, mostly from towns accross the Russian border, attended services which are conducted in Church Slavonic. When asked about young parishioners or Chinese faithful he said that a young Chinese man, a student of Slavonic languages and a non-believer helps by reading the Psalms on Sundays.
Because his church is undergoing capital repairs, Fr. Gregory indicated that his biggest need is money to pay for the church's restoration. He has books and materials for church services, but money is the most difficult to raise. Former residents of Harbin, their children and grandchildren, come to visit from the USA and Australia. They appear to be the source of most donations. A former priest from Harbin, now a retired dentist in the USA comes to visit and has helped considerably.
We hoped to attend Liturgy on Ascension Thursday, but Fr. Gregory said the next service would take place upon the re-opening of the church on June 20th. We asked whether one could go to another church. He answered that this was the only active Orthodox Church within the city's limits. However, several years ago, the Chinese government built a church 1 ½ hours outside the city by taxi, but this was too far and inconvenient for the parishioners. Originally, a cemetery adjoined the church, but since it was located so close to the city's centre, the government removed it to its present location and built the new church there.
(Note of gratitude from the editor to Mr. & Mrs. Kollar for their account of their trip to the Orthodox Church in Harbin. We wish all the best and God's blessings for them and their family)