To see what real China is, you have to visit the mainland - especially the capital Beijing. Referring back to school times, I remember some historical events taught about China. I also remember since I was young, a nice Chinese frame decorating the family room in my house, presenting a characteristic scene of Chinese landscape. Visiting Beijing last month reminded me of the history that I was taught in school, and I felt the Chinese spirit and culture coming out of Chinese paintings and movies that I have seen previously.
His Eminence Metropolitan NIKITAS received an invitation by Her Excellency the Ambassador of the Republic of Cyprus in Beijing, Mrs. Loria Markides, to attend the reception hosted in honor of the Independence Day of Cyprus. Metropolitan NIKITAS already had planned a trip to Australia to attend a fundraising dinner organized by an Orthodox community there to support the mission work in Southeast Asia. As he was unable to attend the reception, he asked me to go as my own representative because of my Cypriot descent.. As I never say no to such occasions, I found myself in Beijing. The horror that I felt at the airport immigration (worrying that the authorities will found out that I am a priest going there to do mission work - something which is not allowed for foreigners) changed when I went to the city and was welcomed by very friendly and polite Chinese people. I was so amazed by their politeness and the friendliness. Everybody was so happy, and you can see that by studying the smile in their face.
Beijing is a huge city of 16 million people with huge highways, traffic and thousands of bicycles. I knew beforehand that in many people use bicycles in Beijing, but seeing in reality is different. What I did not see was people wearing the traditional uniform of Chairman Mao that had been used up until recent years as the only way of dressing up. When I asked what happened, I was told that things changed in 1980,s and since then people can wear anything they like. I had mixture feelings about that: on the one hand, I wanted to see such a scene, but on the other hand, I was thinking that it is better for the people to have such freedoms.
The second day was a blessed one as it started with the Divine Liturgy celebrated at the premises of the Greek Embassy in Beijing. When we informed Ambassador Theophanopoulos that I would visit Beijing, he asked me to celebrate the Divine Liturgy for the benefit of his family and the rest of the Embassy's staff, including the Cyprus Embassy as well. More than 30 Orthodox members attended the Divine Liturgy celebrated at the Ambassador's dining room, followed by the service of "Agiasmos" and blessing of the Greek Embassy which was recently renovated. It was Sunday, September 26, and our church was celebrating the feast of the Falling Asleep of Apostle, John the Theologian. During my short sermon, I talked about the life of Apostle John. In his welcoming speech, Mr. Theophanopoulos mentioned that it was a great blessing for the community there to attend the Divine Liturgy and received Holy Communion. He also said that it was no a coincidence, but rather a blessing from God, that it happened to be the feast of Apostle John, and that Mr. Theophanopoulos name is John, that the icon that he has in The Embassy was Apostle John writing the Revelation in the cave of Revelation in the Holy island of Patmos, and finally that Mr. Theophanopoulos and his family visited the Monastery of St. John the Theologian in Patmos last summer. The Ambassador said that because of these coincidences, this was a sign, and in the future he was going to celebrate his name day on September 26, the feast of St. John the Theologian instead of January 7, which is the feast day of St. John the Baptist.
A reception was hosted by Mrs. Theophanopoulos, and during the reception we had the chance to meet with the people. Everybody was very happy because of the Divine Liturgy, and they express their wish to visit them more often. Mr. Theophanopoulos stated that with the collaboration of Mrs. Markides and help of businessmen from Greece, they were planning to build a small chapel within the premises of the Greek Embassy so there will be a permanent place of worship.
After the reception, we visited a Buddhist cemetery. Why did we do that? An Orthodox member was buried there last June. The reason that he was buried there is that in China does not allowed burials apart from cremations. The Orthodox tradition says that we should be interred, so the only place where permission was given to do such a thing was that Buddhist cemetery that is only for Chinese people who died abroad. The family of the fellow who passed away tried through many connections to get a place at least in a Christian cemetery, but that was out of question because of the refusal by local authorities. At the Buddhist cemetery, we read the "Trisagion" service for the rest of the soul of our beloved brother.
The next day was sightseeing. The tour started with a visit at the Tiananmen Square, one of the most famous squares in the world. It was huge and crowded with people due to the forthcoming celebration of the establishment of the People's Republic of China. When I asked the guide to show me where the black events took place some years ago, she wondered why I still remember those things. It is not easy to forget such an act against innocent students demonstrating. Walking through the beautiful Forbidden City was like taking part in the ceremonies that the emperors used to hold there. Just watching the film "The Last Emperor" is not enough to feel the spirit of those times. You have to visit the place itself. The whole palace is decorated with big carved marble stones. When I asked how the transfer of such big stones to there occurred, I was told that during the summertime, they used to dig pathways and fill them with water. During wintertime, the water was frozen, so they use to push the marble stones on the ice. And then I thought that it is not just the Greeks or the Egyptians that used such a clever techniques in the history.
What amazed me more was the visit to the Great Wall. Again, words are not enough to describe the marvelous beauty and the greatness of mankind's piece of work. Walking along the wall, I was looking through its openings to see the big warrior Genghas Khan (father of Kublai Khan) trying to capture the city. I do not know why, but it reminded me of the history of the Russian church that I was taught while in school and the attacks of the Mongolians. On the last day, I tried to visit Chairman Mao, mausoleum, however, it was closed due to the forthcoming celebrations.
The reception hosted by Mrs. Markides changed the atmosphere, as the room was decorated with pictures of Cyprus, and there was Greek food and music. Even the waitresses were dressed with the traditional women's uniforms of Cyprus. Many diplomats along with officials of the People's Republic of China attended the reception. A young couple working in Beijing as computer professors brought with them two large cakes - one decorated with the logo of the Republic of Cyprus and the other with the map of an undivided Cyprus. The day closed with the blessing of the house of another young couple recently moved to Beijing from Cyprus as they were assigned to work for the Embassy there.
I left Beijing with mixed feelings about this historic city which today combines the history of the emperors and the history of the culture revolution. This is the city of the Forbidden City and the Mausoleum of Chairman Mao. The city of Tiananmen Square and the Golden Buddha. The city of lights and bicycles. The city of friendly and polite people. However, a city with no real religion rights except for the existence of some churches controlled by the party. I wish one day that our brothers and sisters have the blessing to worship without fear, as they gain other rights and privileges.